Jgaurora a5 print lifing from plate4/25/2023 #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0 // Z offset: -below +above #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // Y offset: -front +behind #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 10 // X offset: -left +right If the remote control still works, then at least some infrared is passing through and you may have trigger issues without applying some remedial method such as painting the underside as detailed above.Įxtract the ZIP file and open up the Configuration.h file in Notepad or Arduino IDE 1.8.5 and make the following edits If the remote control no longer works, then the object either absorbs, redirects, or otherwise blocks infrared and your IR sensor will be able to “see” the build surface. Place the build platform you want to test directly in front of the remote control and test to see if the remote control can still control the TV. In that case, you'll need to repeat step 1 to verify the remote control works at the farther distance when it isn’t blocked. If the remote control still works, you may be too near the TV, you may need to back away and try blocking again. (Don’t wrap your hand over the front of the remote control). Other/Not Listed: You will have to check yourself if your surface is transparent to IR light, an easy way to do this is with a standard TV remote control.Place your hand in front of the remote control to block the infrared signal and verify that the remote control no longer controls the TV. Install/paint the surface between the PrintBite and the glass bed.Īnodised aluminium, with or without PEI coating: suitable if the finish is matt or semi-matt. However, this is not practical if the PrintBite sheet has the adhesive already attached.On the A5, its suggested to follow the advice as per glass. This means that it needs to be painted black on the underside in order to work well with the IR sensor. PrintBite: Early samples were found to be opaque to IR (so these work OK), but more recent samples are transparent to IR. The white variant is untested, but it should work too. Coatings on the glass such as the Black Diamond coating affect the trigger height hugely so its advised to flip the glass upside down, paint it and install a new surface like PrintBite.īuildTak: The dark grey variant works well with the sensor. Glass (with or without coatings such as hairspray, PVA or Kapton tape): Works as-is if placed directly on a PCB bed heater or other surface that does not reflect strongly. There is a potential problem when the sensor is used with a transparent bed material that reflects infrared light weakly and there is a surface below the transparent material that reflects IR much more strongly. In order for this to work, the sensor needs to “see” the reflection of the IR beam from the top surface of the bed. See the printer lubrication page for some recommendations. I had probes that were (apparently) 44mm offset from probe point 1, that's utter madness and was caused by the motors stalling for a portion of their move on every single measurement point. The reason for this is if the motors turn enough to say, raise the bed 1mm, but for 50% of the movement, they stall because of the friction, your next probe measurement is going to be way off. I would recommend checking yours moves freely, and if youre concerned, clean the old stuff off and replace it with something like Machine Oil, or your preferred choice of lubricant. This manifested itself in what sounded like a grinding noise coming from both of the Z axis steppers. After only 3 weeks, the stuff on my rods had turned all sticky meaning the tiny movements the printer has to do were not being performed correctly. Up to writing, it was still going strong.Whatever lubricant JGAurora use on the threaded rods lifting the Z axis is utter garbage. Just because my second printer is running PLA. Printed it for strength (beef up layer width, maximize number of perimeters). Added washers in the model to center the wheel and use the bearing. I made the component a bit bigger using the little more space that is available. I needed: increased total layer adhesion, and washers such that the bearing is used to mount the wheel The orignal factory STL file for this part is available on internet, but installing the same component the same way, that must in time lead to the same problem. I also noticed that the idler wheel was enclosed at two sides by the part, rubbing against at least one side. It was suffering from failing layer adhesion, and deformation. After opening up, black debris was visible on the Y-Axis idler wheel holder. My JG Aurora A5 started producing a terrible squeaking noise while printing.
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